Description & Ratings

• General

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  $15,000 or $14,000 (with factory leather seats) I'm looking at getting an economy car for the time being. I'm about to graduate medical school (aka PAY OFF SOME SERIOUS LOANS) and I don't have any time, as it is, to play with this car as it should. This car runs well, never raced! That's right. People always ask - "why did you build such a car to not race it?". I guess the answer is that I wanted to build a nice overall car that mirrored more expensive cars in looks and performance (eg. 911). With that done - I've always used the vehicle as a daily driver (back and forth from the hospital). I always allow the Oil Temp to warm up (to fully operating temp) before any boost is made and I always allow the car to "cool-off" with the turbo timer. The car usually see's 1-5psi (if that much) on a daily basis. I rarely take the car up to full boost, reason being is it is kinda scarey! This thing can move, however my friends call me "the grandma" because I never really push it. Because this vehicle was built by ATS racing (leaders in MR2 performance modifications) - it has always ran well. The car has a factory retuned ECU - which enables it always to start up on the first time - no problem in cold or hot weather. No need to worry about the car being tuned on the threshold of safety - ATS tuned this vehicle very conservatively (to ensure that it will always be running properly). What this means to you - is that there is definitely room to increase the power (up to 500-600hp) and you'd have no problem with the internals. The car does not blow smoke, it does not burn oil, it does not leak oil. I change the oil every 2-3k miles with Mobil 1 10w30 full synthetic every time. I have a book of records in the glove box that details all of the services that either I performed or my trusted mechanic performed (meaning you have notes on all the oil changes, spark plugs, suspension, transmission fluid changes, etc.). Feel free to call or txt me 205-903-3122 Ben White 92T (original turbo) - car came with all options except for keyless entry (which it now has) 125k miles on Chasis (I purchased the car with 82k miles on it). All original toyota windows, fenders, doors, and quarter panels all have original vin stickers

• Engine

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  Engine: Car shipped to ATS Racing in Texas for full build - 2.2L stroker with the TDO6 TURBO - please check builds at ATSracing.net for specifics (forged pistons, HKS cams, Head work, ferrera valves, shim-less buckets, adjustable cam gears) ----Listed below are just a few specifics - again, car had a full build including gaskets, fuel system, water pump, oil pump, etc. TDO6 Turbo - fitted with braided oil lines and water lines 3" Down pipe (ATS) 3" Dual - Berk Exhaust Screamer Pipe (ATS) Spearco Intercooler kit - with Spal fan located on Intercooler Tial 38mm External Wastegate Resynchroed Transmission - shifts awesome! No Grinding Very comfortable stagemasters clutch (installed by ATS racing) Another spal fan - added to engine lid - to help improve air flow through lid V-max anti-torque bar (to keep engine/transmission still) Polyurethane Motor Mounts Brass shifter Bushings Clutch Master and Slave cylinder replaced Strut Rod - installed on Engine lid (no more do you have to use the prop rod) Toyota BPV ("blow off valve")

• Body

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  Body: Starfire Pearl (Lexus Color) - 8-10coat paint job (cost: $8-10,000) Official Greddy/Trust Polyurethane Front Lip Official Greddy/Trust Fiberglass Side Skirts 94+ Toyota Tail Lights 94+ Toyota JDM - Trunk Lid 98-99 Toyota JDM - Adjustable Rear Spoiler Added sound deadening to floor and fire-wall NEW OEM T-top seals NEW OEM Body seals (the ones that go up the pillars around the roof and down the back pillars) NEW OEM Door Sill Rubber NEW OEM Mirror rubber Triangle (the thing that holds the tweeter and mirror) Car Cover (full)

• Interior

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  Interior: Factory leather doors Recaro Speed/SRD seats - black with red stitching Replaced Hazard and A/C switches - b/c of scratches A/C working and blowing cold Tinted windows - to protect the interior of the vehicle Added Boost gauge, oil temp, and a/f ratio Greddy Shift knob Toyota single din - cubby - under CD player (great for IPOD or Phone) 2 sets of floor mats - originals and one's with my initials on them. Electronics: Apexi Staggered Electronic Boost Controller Blitz Turbo Timer Sony Head Unit - CD/Mp3, front Aux input, front USB input, IPOD cable hookup located in glovebox 8" Bazooka Tube (can't remember the wattage - but it was the best one that was available) - behind driver's seat - that is setup for quick disconnect New Battery - just replaced the ORIGINAL BATTERY! New Alternator - Replaced by Hux Racing (Eric Hux stated that the bearing was going bad) Keyless Entry - 2 remotes - with Autostart (I use it to warm up the car) - these keys have amazing range! Factory Alarm

• Suspension

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  Suspension: Springs: Eibach Pro-Kit (1" lowering) Shocks: AGX - 4way adjustable dampeners Bushings: Polyurethane - well lubricated (no squeaking in winter time) Front/Rear Inner and Outer Tie rods replaced Ball joints - all replaced Adjustable Endlinks in Front Welded/Reinforced Front sway bar mounts (done by Hux Racing) - still have stock sway bars Front Upper Suspension Mounts - replaced Rota Slipstream 17x8+35 all around - Gunmetal (rare)

• WheelsTires

• TheBad

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  The Bad: I've never had intermittent wiper settings (since I bought the car) - I have fast and slow, and the blades always park themselves at the correct position when they are turned off. I believe this is due to switch/relay problem located within the stalk on the steering column. The hi-beams have recently started to act funny. If you pull the left stalk back (towards the driver) the brights work with no problem; however, when you push the left stalk forward (to leave the brights on - without you having to hold it) - they don't turn on (even though the hi-beam indicator on the dash turns on). I have read that this is also due to a switch problem within the stalk (the terminals apparently age/oxidize - which prevents them from making a strong connection). I presume that both of these problems could be fixed by simply swapping out the left and right stalks on the steering column with a used set.