• 1998
  • Dodge
  • Neon
  • Highline
  • 58,451 Miles
  • $3,500
  • Red
  • 2-Door
  • Coupe
  • Gray
  • 1B3ES42C2WD558398
  • Automatic
  • 10/18/2009 5:14:23 PM
  • SOHC
  • 2.2l
  • 4 Cylinders engine
  • Front Wheel Drive
  • 237 WHP
  • 231 WTQ
  • Gasoline
  • True
  • Turbocharged
  • http://img.modifiedcartrader.com/uploaded/TN/2009/03/20140_Dodge_Neon_128822285618747354.JPG
  • False
  • 5,000 Miles
  • 26 MPG
  • Motegi SX5
  • No
  • Yokahama
  • $30,000


Reading Pennsylvania

Send Private Msg

Description & Ratings

  • more

    - Carbon Fiber Hood, Carbon fiber Trunk lid, Wings West mid wing (painted to match body PR4 paint code), stock front bumper custom made to fit front mount

    - Depo projector headlights, clear side markers, clear turn signal lenses, APC Euro tails

    - paint and body in good condition for a 98 neon


  • more

    2.2L Stroker Blueprinted Race Engine by Howell Automotive

       - 10.5:1 JE pistons, Eagle rods, forged crank, Stage 6 cylinder head (ported, polished, blended seats, etc.), Crane 158-0014 Camshaft, Hi-perf oil pump, Moroso oil pan

       - Garret T3/T04 42 Trim turbocharger, 27" FMIC, Greddy Type S BOV, Tial External Wastegate, World Electronics PBC-1 boost controller, custom welded intercooler piping (made by Eric Plebani from World Motorsports), custom headers

       - K&N filter, custom air intake, INDY intake manifold, red 60mm throttle body, custom 3" stainless exhaust, Flowmaster 40 series muffler, Escalade exhaust tip

       - Walbro 255LPH fuel pump, 630cc Siemens injectors, MSD plug wires

       - AEM FIC (tuned by World), AF/x Race ECU (higher rev limit, no 120mph cutoff, etc.)

       - performance rebuilt auto tranny, Hi Perf valve body, Hi perf torque converter

  • more

    This car has been my baby and major project since 2002. It started as a base model 1998 SOHC 2 Door and has since been radically transformed and turns heads everywhere I drive it (considering how little I drive it). Most of the parts on this car, aside from frame and some of the body, are aftermarket and relatively new. I bought the car and it had 26000 miles on it. It currently has close to 60000 so I have only added about 35000 miles and most of these miles were put on when I was in college until 2005. After that I have owned a VW as a daily driver and this car has been garage kept or at a shop. Car just passed inspection and is good to go! All in all the car is great as is. Low mileage and at a great stage where one could keep it as is or could increase boost and have some real fun. Alot has been invested and this car has seen some great mechanics. Definitely a good deal for anyone looking for a more unique turbo app. My major reason for selling the car is that it is not really consistent with saving money so that I can buy a house soon which is my goal for this year.

  • more

    - fairly stock interior, custom gauge cluster, PBC-1 mounted on steering column, Kenwood head unit, Kenwood door speakers, Kenwood rear deck speakers, Kenwood power amp, two Kenwood 10" subs, Kenwood iPod interface

    - stereo is new (5000 miles of low use since I like turbo sound more than music!) and sounds perfect.

  • more

    - KYB 2 Gas struts (5000 miles of use)

    - relatively new brakes

    - wheels and tires are brand new (only a couple hundred miles)

    - black wheels with aluminum rim go great with projectors and carbon fiber

  • more
    The issue with the car is the idling upon stopping at a red light. The idling has to be controlled manually by using the Throttle Adjustment bolt on the throttle body. This has to be adjusted from time to time to ensure good stop and go drivability. This car will always run well at the track but does not like the daily grind as is and must be adjusted. The stock throttle body will come with the car as an option to remedy this issue in case the buyer wants a daily driver with no adjusting. Using the stock throttle body will be fine and will allow the owner to plug the IAC back in. The other remedy is to run a standalone ECU. Yet another fix is to use a spring cable and an interior knob to twist the bolt from inside the car as opposed to have to lift the hood. this can be fixed or made easier with little expense unless you want to pursue a standalone.

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